{"id":3267,"date":"2016-03-31T05:36:06","date_gmt":"2016-03-31T05:36:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mugwortborn.wpengine.com\/project\/episode-one-leaving-home\/"},"modified":"2024-04-15T20:53:12","modified_gmt":"2024-04-15T20:53:12","slug":"episode-one-leaving-home","status":"publish","type":"project","link":"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/id\/project\/episode-one-leaving-home\/","title":{"rendered":"EPISODE SATU: Meninggalkan Rumah"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; admin_label=&#8221;section&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row admin_label=&#8221;row&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_post_title _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_post_title][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Text&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.24.0&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<\/p>\n<p>Hidupku adalah sebuah penampakan, sebuah halusinasi, sebuah proyeksi yang belum redup. Penampakan ini mempunyai jangka waktu, logika, dan seperti matahari, ia akan terbenam. Tergantung perubahan suasana hatiku, hidup ini kadang tampak panjang dan kadang tampak pendek. Dalam rentang waktu tersebut, ada rencana yang berhasil dilaksanakan, dan ada rencana yang gagal. Tentu saja, bukan hanya aku, semua orang yang pernah kukenal\u2014entah pernah bertemu langsung atau tidak\u2014masing-masing memiliki penampakan dari apa-yang-disebut-dengan hidup mereka. Dalam halusinasi hidupku, aku tahu John Lennon, yang belum pernah kutemui dan yang berpengaruh padaku. Jika aku seekor kupu-kupu, maka aku tidak akan pernah mengenal John Lennon. Dalam halusinasi hidupku, aku tahu Stalin, yang belum pernah kutemui dan tidak berpengaruh padaku, aku tidak peduli pada Stalin.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_105\" style=\"width: 301px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-105\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-105\" src=\"http:\/\/mugwortborn.wpengine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/83573355-291x300.jpg\" alt=\"A great creator of the illusion of words\" width=\"291\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/83573355-291x300.jpg 291w, https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/83573355-768x791.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/83573355.jpg 994w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 291px) 100vw, 291px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-105\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pencipta ilusi kata-kata yang hebat<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Dari orang-orang yang pernah kutemui, ada yang aku kenal seumur hidup dan ada pula yang hanya kukenal sebentar. Ada yang masih hidup, ada pula yang kini sudah mati. Beberapa orang sama sekali tak berpengaruh dalam hidupku dan beberapa orang sangat berarti bagiku. Aku duduk bersama banyak orang India di kereta, berbagi makanan dan obrolan, yang aku sudah lupa nama-namanya. Aku minum teh dengan seorang pria di Boston untuk mendiskusikan Dharma tanpa mengetahui bahwa dia adalah Allen Ginsberg, dan oleh karena itu, aku kehilangan kesempatan untuk mendiskusikan puisi dengan pencipta ilusi kata-kata yang hebat. Aku bertemu dengan ratu dominatrix tercantik, Whitney Ward, yang memperlihatkan penjara bawah tanahnya padaku, dan di kemudian hari ikut melakukan puja api denganku. Dan aku bertemu dengan raja ketiga Bhutan, Yang Mulia Raja Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, yang ketika aku masih kecil mengangkat dan menggendongku di bahunya. Aku masih ingat bau asap rokok di rambutnya.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_104\" style=\"width: 230px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-104\" class=\"wp-image-104 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/mugwortborn.wpengine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/439px-Jigme_Dorji_Wangchuck-220x300.jpg\" alt=\"439px-Jigme_Dorji_Wangchuck\" width=\"220\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/439px-Jigme_Dorji_Wangchuck-220x300.jpg 220w, https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/439px-Jigme_Dorji_Wangchuck.jpg 439w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 220px) 100vw, 220px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-104\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yang Mulia Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, Raja Ketiga Bhutan<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Di antara semua penampakan ini, terdapat begitu banyak peralihan, begitu banyak kematian, juga begitu banyak kelahiran. Ada beberapa pernikahan dan cukup banyak perceraian. Bahkan aku pun pasti telah berubah, dalam hidup ini dan sepanjang hidupku. Aku pasti punya banyak penampakan lain sebelumnya: sebagai burung, sebagai serangga, sebagai manusia.<\/p>\n<p>Tapi penampakanku saat ini mungkin bernilai lebih, setelah mendengar nama Gautama dan muncul kekaguman layaknya anak kecil atas apa yang telah Beliau utarakan. Aku juga telah bertemu dengan salah satu makhluk terhebat yang pernah jatuh ke dalam kuali sup nasi, makhluk yang muncul sebagai kompas, yang menjadi mercusuar kehidupanku.<\/p>\n<p>Ketika aku berumur sekitar lima tahun, aku dikirim ke asrama. Ini adalah pertama kalinya aku sendiri dengan orang asing, tinggal di asrama. Ini adalah perubahan besar bagiku karena aku dibesarkan di sebuah keluarga besar, Buddhis garis keras di Yongla, Bhutan Timur, selalu dikelilingi oleh para pengunjung dan pelayan, para yogi dengan rambut gimbal yang digilai fans fanatik Bob Marley, dan para yogini bebas yang begitu percaya diri, bahwa mereka bisa menjadi kandidat sempurna presiden sebuah organisasi pembebasan perempuan. Ada para penghuni gua yang sudah merasa cukup dan tidak mengerti mengapa orang begitu repot menggali tanah, mendirikan tiang, dan memasang langit-langit. Ada para bhikkhu yang tenang yang mungkin belum pernah menyentuh uang lebih dari sepuluh rupee. Ada juga banyak gomchen[1] yang terangsang, yang godaan dan rayuannya terhadap para wanita membuatku penasaran tanpa henti, dan yang aktivitasnya mungkin telah membantu mematangkan hormonku.<\/p>\n<p>Setiap ruangan di rumah kakek dari pihak ibuku memiliki altar, jadi jika ingin kentut harus keluar. Lalu ada puja yang terus berlangsung; aku terbangun di pagi hari karena mencium aroma persembahan asap dan suara simbal, lonceng, dan genderang, yang perlahan-lahan menyatu dengan kicauan jangkrik, merpati, dan burung gagak. Itu sebabnya saya sangat menyukai film Ozu, karena suara yang ia gunakan.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_108\" style=\"width: 207px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-108\" class=\"wp-image-108 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/mugwortborn.wpengine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Drubwang_Sonam_Zangpo-197x300.jpg\" alt=\"Drubwang_Sonam_Zangpo\" width=\"197\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Drubwang_Sonam_Zangpo-197x300.jpg 197w, https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Drubwang_Sonam_Zangpo-768x1172.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Drubwang_Sonam_Zangpo-671x1024.jpg 671w, https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Drubwang_Sonam_Zangpo-1080x1648.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 197px) 100vw, 197px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-108\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Drubwang Sonam Zangpo<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Kakekku adalah seorang lelaki serba bisa; selain menjadi contoh sempurna seorang yogi, ia juga seorang juru masak yang hebat, seorang penyembuh, pembuat dupa, pematung, dan arsitek, yang selalu merenovasi atau membangun stupa-stupa baru. Sejak aku melangkah keluar pintu, terdengar suara tukang logam yang sedang membuat benda-benda ritual dan udara dipenuhi aroma kental cat Bhutan yang terbuat dari kulit sapi. Bahkan hingga saat ini, setiap kali aku memasuki kuil Bhutan yang baru dicat, aku dibawa kembali ke masa kecilku. Mereka masih menggunakan cat bau yang tidak efektif itu, berkat semangat <em>Institut Nasional Zorig Chusum Bhutan<\/em>[2], yang bersikeras menjaga &#8220;tradisi&#8221; Bhutan di era cat modern sudah tersedia.<\/p>\n<p>Ketika hari keberangkatanku semakin dekat, kakekku terdengar menggerutu tentang betapa pendidikan di sekolah negeri hanya membuang-buang waktu. Dan ia mungkin benar. Nenek pun ikut menggerutu, khawatir karena ini sekolah Kristen, aku akan kehilangan kepercayaan pada Buddha dan ajarannya dan aku akan mulai memandang hewan hanya sebagai makanan. Namun omelan mereka tidak keras. Keluhan mereka sembunyi-sembunyi, ragu-ragu, dan sopan, menggunakan bahasa halus, seperti waktu Anda mengomel tentang seseorang yang sangat Anda hormati.<\/p>\n<p>Perintah untuk menyekolahkanku ke asrama Inggris ini adalah perintah ayahku, ini tidak disampaikan secara langsung. Aku tidak dekat dengan ayah; ia dan ibuku tinggal di Kurseong, sebuah stasiun bukit di Darjeeling, India. Kedua orang tuaku terlalu sibuk untuk merawatku secara pribadi. Mereka bekerja di All India Radio. Aku lebih dekat dengan kakek-nenek, namun di usia muda ini, anak-anak berasumsi bahwa, pada akhirnya, orang tualah yang paling sayang dan peduli. Aku ingat betapa senangnya aku jika ada pengunjung dari Kurseong, betapa inginnya aku menerima pesan atau pertanda dari orang tuaku. Tapi pesan-pesan itu tidak pernah untukku, selalu untuk kakek-nenekku.<\/p>\n<p>Jadi suatu hari seorang pelayan datang dari Kurseong dengan instruksi untuk mengirimku ke sekolah berbahasa Inggris. Pasti sulit bagi kakek dan nenek karena tidak ada kesempatan untuk berunding dengan ayahku, itupun kalau mereka berani. Untuk menyampaikan pesan kembali ke Kurseong akan memakan waktu berminggu-minggu, lagipula ayahku tidak akan mendengarkan kekhawatiran mereka. Sebagai ayah, ia mempunyai wewenang untuk melakukan apapun yang ia inginkan terhadapku dan terlebih lagi ia adalah putra Dudjom Rinpoche, guru spiritual mereka, jadi mereka tidak berani mengeluh padanya.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_109\" style=\"width: 230px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-109\" class=\"wp-image-109 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/mugwortborn.wpengine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/William_Mackey_of_the_Jesuits.jpg\" alt=\"William_Mackey_of_the_Jesuits\" width=\"220\" height=\"220\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/William_Mackey_of_the_Jesuits.jpg 220w, https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/William_Mackey_of_the_Jesuits-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 220px) 100vw, 220px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-109\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pastor William Mackey<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Awalnya aku dikirim untuk kurun waktu yang singkat ke sekolah dekat Yongla, di Khidung, (yang bisa berarti &#8220;desa kotoran&#8221; atau spiral keong) tapi kemudian dipindahkan lebih jauh ke utara, ke sekolah di Tashigang, dan akhirnya ke Sekolah Kanglung yang baru saja selesai dibangun, dan dikelola oleh Pastor William Joseph Mackey, seorang pendeta Jesuit Kanada.<\/p>\n<p>Sekolah Kanglung akhirnya menjadi Perguruan Tinggi Sherubtse, perguruan tinggi pertama di Bhutan, namun saat itu hanya berupa sekolah berasrama kecil. Aku ingat bagaimana aku sangat khawatir karena kepala asrama sangat ketat dan dia memeriksa seprai kami setiap hari untuk melihat apakah ada yang mengompol. Anak lelaki di sebelahku punya kebiasaan mengompol. Dan aku berbaring terjaga di malam hari tanpa bisa tidur karena takut dipermalukan jika akhirnya aku pun mengompol. Aku tidak tahu apa yang terjadi pada kebanyakan teman sekelas ini, tetapi beberapa dari mereka telah melakukan hal-hal penting, seperti mengabdi pada PBB atau menjadi kepala polisi.<\/p>\n<p>Jadi, pada suatu pagi yang dingin dan hujan setelah beberapa bulan berada di Asrama Pastor Mackey, sebuah truk dengan tempat tidur berpanel kayu masuk ke jalan di atas sekolah. Pada masa itu, mobil masih jarang terlihat di Bhutan, jadi semua siswa berlari ke atas bukit dan berkumpul di tengah hujan untuk menonton. Mereka mengharapkan pesan dari rumah. Sudah menjadi kebiasaan di Bhutan, bahkan hingga sekarang, bagi keluarga untuk mengirimkan paket keju kering, serpihan jagung Bhutan, atau cabai kering, dan itulah makna tersirat keberadaan sebuah truk.<\/p>\n<p>Tapi ini bukan pengiriman biasa. Dari terpal hijau yang menutupi bagian belakang, muncullah salah satu pelayan kakekku, Sonam Chophel, dengan janggut khas dan wajah merahnya (ini bukan pelawak Sonam Chophel yang beberapa dari kalian kenal). Bahkan bertahun-tahun kemudian, ketika janggut pria ini telah memutih, kulitnya tidak pernah menua dan warna kulitnya tetap kencang dan cerah. Aku langsung tahu ada sesuatu untukku. Mungkin sebuah parsel. Dia menunjuk ke arah terpal dan keluarlah sosok lain yang belum pernah kulihat sebelumnya dalam hidupku, seorang pria berpenampilan aneh yang mengenakan celana, bukan pakaian tradisional Bhutan. Alih-alih menyapaku, Sonam Chophel dan orang asing itu langsung menuju kantor Kepala Sekolah. Sebagian dari kami, anak-anak, merayap ke pinggir jendela untuk memata-matai mereka berbicara dengan Pastor Mackey.<\/p>\n<p>Setelah cukup lama, Pastor Mackey datang dan memanggilku. Dia mengatakan bahwa aku bukan lagi murid di sekolahnya. \u201cKamu harus pergi sekarang.\u201d Aku yakin Pastor Mackey sebenarnya menulis sesuatu dalam biografinya tentang hari itu.<\/p>\n<p>Aku tidak ingat apakah aku senang bisa pulang ke rumah atau sedih harus mengucapkan selamat tinggal kepada teman-teman yang baru kukenal dalam waktu singkat ini. Desas\u2013desus segera menyebar dan beberapa teman sekelasku mulai bercanda dan menggoda. Ada yang tiba-tiba malu untuk berbicara denganku, bersujud dan meminta berkah. Aku tidak tahu apa yang sedang terjadi. Tapi tidak banyak waktu untuk memikirkannya.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_111\" style=\"width: 188px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-111\" class=\"wp-image-111 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/mugwortborn.wpengine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/amcho-178x300.jpg\" alt=\"amcho\" width=\"178\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/amcho-178x300.jpg 178w, https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/amcho.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 178px) 100vw, 178px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-111\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Amcho di Sikkim, 2009<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Segera, pada hari yang dingin dan hujan itu, dengan truk yang sama, kami meninggalkan Kanglung. Teman-teman sekelasku berlari mengejar truk sampai kami menghilang dalam kabut. Dan itulah akhir dari pendidikan sekulerku. Kami menuju ke selatan menuju Yongla\u2014pria bertubuh besar ini, yang jelas-jelas bukan orang Bhutan, dan Sonam Chophel sedang mendengkur dalam sethra[3] gho-nya yang pudar. Belakangan aku baru tahu bahwa orang Khampa yang kekar ini adalah Amcho. Dia pernah menjadi biksu di Dzongsar Tibet Timur, Sichuan tapi kemudian menanggalkan jubahnya ketika dia pergi dan menjadi pengusaha hotel besar di Gangtok, Sikkim.<\/p>\n<p>Aku sering bertanya-tanya apa yang mungkin terjadi padaku jika hari itu tidak pernah ada, jika aku tidak pernah dikenali dan direkrut ke dalam fenomena reinkarnasi tulku. Aku mungkin menjadi seorang pemrogram komputer di New Jersey, sama seperti adik laki-lakiku sekarang, atau menikah dengan seorang gadis Yahudi, atau mungkin menjadi seorang praktisi Dharma yang hidup susah di bagian utara New York, tempat ayahku menghabiskan sisa hidupnya. Mungkin aku bersekolah di North Point, Darjeeling dan kuliah di India, kemudian kembali ke Bhutan dengan bahasa Inggris India yang cukup baik untuk ditunjuk sebagai sekretaris gabungan beberapa departemen pemerintah yang mengawasi proyek-proyek yang didanai oleh India. Tapi mengetahui betapa terikatnya aku dengan kakek-nenekku, kemungkinan besar aku akan menjadi seorang gomchen yang tidak memakai pakaian dalam, dan berjalan-jalan dalam keadaan setengah mabuk, berburu di malam hari dan memproduksi anak haram di sana sini, sehingga sekarang akan ada beberapa orang yang mirip denganku berkeliaran di sekitar Bhutan timur.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>[1] praktisi awam<\/li>\n<li>[2] Kesenian Bhutan<\/li>\n<li>[3] Kain tradisional Bhutan terbuat dari kotak-kotak kasar yang khas<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_divider _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_divider][et_pb_post_nav _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_post_nav][et_pb_comments _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_comments][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Hidupku adalah sebuah penampakan, sebuah halusinasi, sebuah proyeksi yang belum redup. Penampakan ini mempunyai jangka waktu, logika, dan seperti matahari, ia akan terbenam. Tergantung perubahan suasana hatiku, hidup ini kadang tampak panjang dan kadang tampak pendek. Dalam rentang waktu tersebut, ada rencana yang berhasil dilaksanakan, dan ada rencana yang gagal. Tentu saja, bukan hanya aku, [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":3269,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"My life is an apparition, a hallucination, a projection that has yet to dim. This apparition has a timeframe, a logic, and just like the sun, it will set. Depending on the swinging of my mood, this life sometimes appears long and sometimes appears short. Within its span, plans have been carried out, and plans have fallen apart. Of course it's not just me, all the people I have ever known\u2014whether I have met them in person or not\u2014have their own apparitions of their so-called lives. In the hallucination of my life, I am aware of John Lennon, who I have not met and who has had an effect on me. If I had been a butterfly, I would never have known of him. In the hallucination of my life, I am aware of Stalin, who I have not met and who has no effect on me, I couldn't care less about Stalin.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_105\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"291\"]<img class=\"size-medium wp-image-105\" src=\"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/83573355-291x300.jpg\" alt=\"A great creator of the illusion of words\" width=\"291\" height=\"300\"> A great creator of the illusion of words[\/caption]\n\nOf the people I have actually met, some I have known my whole apparent life and some only a short time. Some are alive, some are now dead. Some were totally insignificant and some meant so much to me. I have sat with countless Indians on trains, sharing food and conversation, whose names no longer exist in my head. I had tea with a man in Boston to discuss Dharma not knowing he was Allen Ginsberg and therefore missed the chance to discuss poetry with a great creator of the illusion of words. I met the most beautiful queen of dominatrixes, Whitney Ward, who showed me her dungeon, and who later joined a fire puja with me. And I met the third king of Bhutan, His Majesty King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, who lifted me up when I was a child and carried me around on his shoulders. I still remember the smell of cigarette smoke in his hair.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_104\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"220\"]<img class=\"wp-image-104 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/439px-Jigme_Dorji_Wangchuck-220x300.jpg\" alt=\"439px-Jigme_Dorji_Wangchuck\" width=\"220\" height=\"300\"> His Majesty Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, the Third King of Bhutan[\/caption]\n\nAmong all these apparitions, there have been so many transitions, so much death, also so much birth. There have been a handful of marriages and quite a lot of divorces. Even I must have transformed, in this life and in all my lives. I must have had so many other apparitions before: as a bird, as a bug, as a human.\n\nBut this present apparition of mine is probably worth a little something extra, having heard the name of Gautama and having acquired a childlike admiration for what he had to say. I have also met one of the greatest beings ever to fall into a cauldron of rice soup, a being who emerged as a compass, the one who became the beacon of my life.\nWhen I was about five years old, I was sent away to boarding school. It was my first time alone with strangers, living in a dormitory. This was a big change for me because I was raised in a large, hard-line Buddhist family in Yongla, East Bhutan, always surrounded by visitors and attendants, yogis with dreadlocks that a Bob Marley fanatic would die for, and uninhibited yoginis so confident they would make perfect candidates for president of a women's liberation organization. There were contented cave-dwellers who couldn't understand why people were so concerned about digging earth, raising posts, and putting up ceilings. There were serene monks who probably had never touched more than ten rupees. There were also a lot of horny <em>gomchen<\/em><a href=\"#_ftn1\" name=\"_ftnref\"><em><sup>[1]<\/sup><\/em><\/a>, whose teasing and flirtations with the ladies intrigued me endlessly and whose activities may have helped mature my hormones.\n\nEvery room in my maternal grandfather's house had a shrine, so if you wanted to fart you had to go outside. There were constant pujas; I would wake up in the mornings to the smell of smoke offerings and the sound of cymbals, bells, and drums, which slowly blended with the songs of the cicadas and pigeons and crows. That must be why I love <a href=\"https:\/\/www.criterion.com\/films\/784-an-autumn-afternoon\">Ozu films<\/a> so much, because of the sounds he uses.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_108\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"197\"]<img class=\"wp-image-108 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Drubwang_Sonam_Zangpo-197x300.jpg\" alt=\"Drubwang_Sonam_Zangpo\" width=\"197\" height=\"300\"> Drubwang Sonam Zangpo[\/caption]\n\nMy grandfather was a renaissance man; in addition to being the perfect specimen of a yogi, he was a wonderful cook, a medicine man, an incense maker, a sculptor, and an architect, always renovating or building new stupas. From the moment I stepped out of the door, there were metalsmiths clanging away making ritual objects and the air was filled with the thick smell of Bhutanese paint, which was made from cowhide. Even today, every time I enter a freshly painted Bhutanese temple, it takes me back to my childhood. They still use that ineffective smelly paint thanks to the zealous Bhutanese National Institute of <em>Zorig Chusum<\/em><a href=\"#_ftn2\" name=\"_ftnref\"><em><sup>[2]<\/sup><\/em><\/a>, which insists on guarding Bhutanese \"tradition\" in an era when state of the art paints are available.\n\nAs the day of my departure neared, my grandfather could be heard grumbling about how public school education was such a waste of time. And he&nbsp;may have been right. My grandmother joined him in the grumbling. She was worried that since it was a Christian school, I might lose my trust in the Buddha and his teachings and that I would start looking at animals merely as food. But their grumblings were not loud. Their grumblings were hushed, hesitant, and polite, using honorific language, the way you would grumble about someone who you really respect.\n\nThe command to send me to this English boarding school was my father's and it was not even delivered face to face. I wasn't close to my father; he and my mother were living in Kurseong, a hill station in Darjeeling, India. Both of my parents were too busy to care for me personally. They were working at All India Radio. I was much closer with my grandparents, but at this young age, children assume that, ultimately, their parents are the ones who love and care for them most. I remember how excited I would get if there was a visitor from Kurseong, how eager I was for some message or sign from my parents. But the messages were never for me, always for my grandparents.\n\nSo one day a footman came from Kurseong with the instructions to send me to an English speaking school. It must have been difficult for my grandparents because there was no way to reason with him, even if they dared. To get a message back to Kurseong would have taken weeks, and anyway my father would not have listened to their concerns. As my father, he had the authority to do whatever he wanted with me and on top of that he was the son of Dudjom Rinpoche, their spiritual master, so they dared not complain to him.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_109\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"220\"]<img class=\"wp-image-109 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/William_Mackey_of_the_Jesuits.jpg\" alt=\"William_Mackey_of_the_Jesuits\" width=\"220\" height=\"220\"> Father William Mackey[\/caption]\n\nI was first sent for a brief time to a school near Yongla, in Khidung, (which could mean either \"shit village\" or spiral of a conch) but then transferred much farther north to a school in Tashigang, and finally to the newly-built Kanglung School run by Father William Joseph Mackey, a Canadian Jesuit priest.\n\nKanglung School eventually became Sherubtse College, the first college in Bhutan, but back then it was just a small boarding school. I remember being so worried because the dorm master was very strict and he would check our sheets every day to see if anyone wet the bed. The boy next to me had a habit of peeing. I would lay awake at night sleepless with fear of being shamed if I would also end up peeing. I don't know what happened to many of these classmates but a few of them have gone on to do big things, like serving the United Nations or becoming chief of police.\n\nAnyway, one cold rainy morning after a few months at Father Mackey\u2019s, a truck with a wood paneled bed came up to the road above the school. Automobiles were rare in Bhutan at that time, so all the students ran up the hill and gathered around in the rain to look. They were hoping for messages from home. It's customary in Bhutan, even today, for families to send packages of dried cheese, Bhutanese corn flakes, or dried chilies and that\u2019s what a truck usually signaled.\n\nBut this was not the usual delivery. From a green tarp covering the back, came one of my grandfather\u2019s attendants, Sonam Chophel, with his distinctive beard and red face (this is not the joker Sonam Chophel some of you know). Even years later when this man's beard had became white, his skin never aged and his complexion remained tight and rosy. I immediately knew there was something in store for me. Maybe a parcel. He indicated toward the tarp and out came another figure I'd never seen before in my life, a peculiar looking man wearing pants, not the traditional Bhutanese dress. Instead of greeting me, Sonam Chophel and the stranger went straight to the headmaster\u2019s office. A bunch of us kids crept up to the window to spy on them speaking to Father Mackey.\n\nAfter they spoke for a long time, Father Mackey came and summoned me. He said that I was no longer a student in his school. \u201cYou must go now.\u201d I believe Father Mackey actually wrote something in his biography about that day.\n\nI don\u2019t remember if I was happy to be going home or if I was sad to say goodbye to the friends I had made in that short time. Rumors immediately started to spread and some of my classmates began joking and teasing. Some were suddenly embarrassed to talk with me, bowing down asking for a blessing. I didn\u2019t know what was going on. But there wasn\u2019t much time for thinking about it.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_111\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"178\"]<img class=\"wp-image-111 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/amcho-178x300.jpg\" alt=\"amcho\" width=\"178\" height=\"300\"> Amcho in Sikkim, 2009[\/caption]\n\nImmediately, that very same cold and rainy day, in that same truck, we left Kanglung. My classmates ran after the truck until we disappeared in the fog. And that was the end of my secular education. We headed south toward Yongla\u2014this big man, who was clearly not Bhutanese, and Sonam Chophel snoring away in his faded sethra<a href=\"#_ftn3\" name=\"_ftnref\"><sup>[3]<\/sup><\/a> gho. Later I learned the strapping Khampa was named Amcho. He had been a monk at Dzongsar East Tibet, Sichuan but disrobed when he left and became a big hotelier in Gangtok, Sikkim.\n\nI often wonder what would have happened to me if that day had never come, if I had never been recognized and drafted into the phenomenon of reincarnate tulku. I may have become a computer programmer in New Jersey, as my youngest brother is now, or married a Jewish girl, or I may have become a struggling Dharma practitioner somewhere in upstate New York, where my father spent the last portion of his life. I may have gone to school in North Point, Darjeeling and college in India, then returned to Bhutan speaking good Indian English to be appointed as joint secretary of some government department that oversees projects funded by India. But knowing how attached I was to my grandparents, most likely I would have become a gomchen who doesn't wear underwear, and walks around half drunk most of the time, night hunting and producing bastards left and right so that now there would be a few people roaming around eastern Bhutan bearing a close resemblance to me.\n<ol>\n \t<li><a href=\"#_ftnref\" name=\"_ftn1\"><em><sup>[1]<\/sup><\/em><\/a> lay practitioners<\/li>\n \t<li><a href=\"#_ftnref\" name=\"_ftn2\"><em><sup>[2]<\/sup><\/em><\/a> Bhutanese arts<\/li>\n \t<li><a href=\"#_ftnref\" name=\"_ftn3\"><sup>[3]<\/sup><\/a> A traditional Bhutanese fabric made of a distinct rough plaid<\/li>\n<\/ol>","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"project_category":[85],"project_tag":[],"class_list":["post-3267","project","type-project","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","project_category-episodes-id"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/id\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/project\/3267","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/id\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/project"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/id\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/project"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/id\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/id\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3267"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/id\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/project\/3267\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/id\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3269"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/id\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3267"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"project_category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/id\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/project_category?post=3267"},{"taxonomy":"project_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mugwortborn.com\/id\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/project_tag?post=3267"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}